La Serena

Welcome to La Serena: Where the Churches Outnumber Your Excuses to Leave

So, you’ve found yourself with a ticket to La Serena, Chile. Did you win a radio contest? Are you hiding from someone? Or did you simply type “pretty, quiet Chilean city” into a search engine and end up here? Whatever your story, welcome! You’ve just landed in a place that’s equal parts colonial charm, astronomical powerhouse, and beach resort for people who think actual warmth is overrated. Prepare for a lot of stonework, a lot of stars, and a lot of empanadas.

Fun Facts to Make You Sound Incredibly Interesting at Parties

Before you start wandering around, arm yourself with these tidbits to impress your travel companions (or that cute local at the bar).

• The City of (39) Churches: La Serena’s nickname isn't just for show. They really do have 39 churches. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to try and find them all. I guarantee you’ll give up after the fifth one and just go get a ice cream instead. It’s the thought that counts.
• Astronomy Capital of the World: The region is home to over a dozen world-class observatories because the skies here are clearer than your future after three pisco sours. The lack of light pollution and dry climate make it one of the best spots on the planet to stare into the existential abyss of the universe.
• A Beach Town That Forgot to Be Tropical: La Serena boasts a gorgeous, long coastline. What it doesn’t boast is tropical water. The Humboldt Current means the Pacific here is colder than your ex’s heart. Swimming is a test of bravery, not a leisurely dip.

Local Food: The Pisco-Powered Diet

You cannot, and I repeat, cannot leave without trying these:

• El Completo: This is not a hot dog. This is a culinary cry for help, and it’s beautiful. Imagine a wiener buried under a mountain of avocado, chopped tomatoes, mayo, sauerkraut, and a generous dollop of “what have I done?” It’s messy, it’s glorious, and it requires at least five napkins.
• Empanadas de Mariscos: Forget the standard beef empanada. You’re on the coast! The seafood here is sublime, and stuffing it into a crispy, fried pastry pocket is a stroke of genius. It’s like a warm, doughy hug from the ocean.
• Papaya con Harina Tostada: This sounds weird but trust me. It’s a simple dessert of fresh papaya sprinkled with toasted flour and sugar. It’s a strange textural dream that somehow works perfectly. It’s the culinary equivalent of finding out two of your very different friends are dating—surprising but delightful.

The “I Only Have 24 Hours” Itinerary (AKA The Speedrun)

8:00 AM: Fuel up with a coffee and a pastel de papas (a potato pie thing with meat) from a local bakery. Carbs are your friend today. 10:00 AM: Stroll through the Plaza de Armas. Admire the Cathedral, and then walk down the Avenida Francisco de Aguirre to see the stately mansions and iconic fountains. Try to name all the trees you can’t identify. 1:00 PM: Lunch time! Head to the Mercado La Serena for the freshest empanadas de mariscos of your life. Soak in the chaotic market vibe. 3:00 PM: Hop on a colectivo (shared taxi) to the nearby town of Coquimbo to see the gargantuan Cruz del Tercer Milenio (Cross of the Third Millennium). The views from the top are worth the slightly terrifying drive up the hill. 6:00 PM: Pisco Sour O’Clock. Find a cozy bar and partake in the national ritual. You’ve earned it. 9:00 PM: Stargazing tour! This is non-negotiable. Book ahead for a tour to one of the observatories. Looking at Saturn’s rings through a telescope will be the highlight of your trip, and possibly your life. 11:30 PM: Grab a completo from a street vendor. You’re on vacation, calories don’t count after midnight.

Expectation vs. Reality: A Humorous Comparison

• Expectation: A balmy, tropical beach holiday. Lounging in the sun, dipping your toes in warm, turquoise water.
• Reality: Wearing a sweater on the beach in January while admiring the beautiful, frigid, grey ocean that tries to steal your soul with its coldness the second you touch it.
• Expectation: A quiet, sleepy town where nothing much happens.
• Reality: A bustling city that is the commercial hub of the region, with chaotic traffic, a vibrant market, and a long, busy stretch of beachfront shops and restaurants.
• Expectation: Gazing romantically at the stars with your significant other.
• Reality: Shivering uncontrollably in the desert at 2 AM while a brilliant astrophysicist explains the death of a star in a way that makes you question your entire existence, all while you can’t feel your toes. Worth it.

The Local’s Cheat Sheet: Don’t Be a Gringo-gringo

• Transport: Use Colectivos! These shared taxis run set routes and are incredibly cheap. Just tell the driver your street or landmark. For longer distances, micros (buses) are your friend. For heaven’s sake, negotiate the price before you get in a regular taxi.
• Etiquette: Dinner is late. Showing up to a restaurant at 8 PM is like showing up to a breakfast place at 5 AM—you’ll be alone. 9:30 PM is a respectable time to eat. Also, a simple “Buenas tardes” (Good afternoon) when entering a shop goes a long way.
• Hidden Gem: Skip the crowded main beach. Take a short colectivo ride north to Peñuelas or south to La Herradura in Coquimbo for a more local vibe. For a killer view without the tour group, hike up the Cerro Grande lookout in Coquimbo.

Conclusion: Just Go Already!

La Serena is a city of delightful contrasts: ancient churches and hyper-modern telescopes, chilly waters and warm people. It’s a place that asks you to slow down, look up, and eat more than you thought humanly possible. So pack a warm jacket for the night and an empty stomach for the day. Your adventure in the City of Churches (and empanadas, and stars) awaits